Fig. 23: Installation of the side oil seal spring
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Fig. 24: Rotor, apex and side seals are identified by
a number which corresponds to the number on each rotor face seal groove
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Fig. 25: Install the apex seals without springs or side
pieces — "F" indicates the front rotor
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Fig. 26: Fitting the assist piece on the apex seal
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Fig. 27: Proper measurements for installed oil seals |
Fig. 28: Install the side piece as shown under "O" — the spring must butt against the apex seal lip |
Fig. 29: Install the O-ring (right arrow), outer sealing rubber and inner sealing rubber (left arrow) |
Fig. 30: Install the new inner oil seals using old seals |
Fig. 31: Install the protector behind the inner sealing rubber in the area shown above and to the right |
Fig. 32: Apply a sealing agent to the front side of the
housing between the O-rings
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Fig. 33: Proper positioning of the inner rubber seal — note the seam position |
Fig. 34: Installing the intermediate housing — an
extra hand to position and move the eccentric shaft aids in installation
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Fig. 35: Installing the rear engine housing
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Fig. 36: Tension bolt tightening sequence
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Fig. 37: Installing the thrust plate
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Fig. 38: Installing the oil pump drive chain and sprockets
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Fig. 39: Checking the eccentric shaft end-play
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NOTE: The inner rubber seal is of the square type. The wider white line of the rubber seal should face the combustion chamber and the seam of the rubber seal should be positioned as shown. Do not stretch the rubber seal.
NOTE: 350 ft. lbs. is a great deal of torque. In actual practice, it is practically impossible to accurately measure that much torque on the nut. At least a 3 ft. bar will be required to generate sufficient torque. Tighten it as tightly as possible, with no longer than 3 ft. of leverage. Be sure the engine is held SECURELY.
NOTE: Be sure that both of the sprockets are engaged with the chain before installing them over the shafts.