The best, and most accurate method to test the operation of an O2sensor is
with the use of either an oscilloscope or a Diagnostic Scan Tool (DST), following
their specific instructions for testing. It is possible, however, to test whether
the O2sensor is functioning properly within general parameters using a Digital
Volt-Ohmmeter (DVOM), also referred to as a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). Newer
DMM's are often designed to perform many advanced diagnostic functions, and
some are even constructed to be used as an oscilloscope. Two in-vehicle testing
procedures, and one bench test procedure, will be provided for the common zirconium
dioxide oxygen sensor. The first in-vehicle test makes use of a standard DVOM
with a 10 megohms impedance, whereas the second in-vehicle test presented necessitates
the usage of an advanced DMM with MIN/MAX/Average functions. Both of these in-vehicle
test procedures are likely to set Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) in the engine
control computer. Therefore, after testing, be sure to clear all DTC's before
retesting the sensor, if necessary.
These are some of the common DTC's which may be set during testing:
- Open in the O2sensor circuit
- Constant low voltage in the O2sensor circuit
- Constant high voltage in the O2sensor circuit
- Other fuel system problems could set a O2sensor code
NOTE: Because an improperly functioning fuel delivery and/or
control system can adversely affect the O2sensor voltage output signal, testing
only the O2sensor is an inaccurate method for diagnosing an engine driveability
problem.
If after testing the sensor, the sensor is thought to be defective because
of high or low readings, be sure to check that the fuel delivery and engine
management system is working properly before condemning the O2sensor. Otherwise,
the new O2sensor may continue to register the same high or low readings.
Often, by testing the O2sensor, another problem in the engine control management
system can be diagnosed. If the sensor appears to be defective while installed
in the vehicle, perform the bench test. If the sensor functions properly during
the bench test, chances are that there may be a larger problem in the vehicle's
fuel delivery and/or control system.
Many things can cause an O2sensor to fail, including old age, antifreeze contamination,
physical damage, prolonged exposure to overly-rich exhaust gases, and exposure
to silicone sealant fumes. Be sure to remedy any such condition prior to installing
a new sensor, otherwise the new sensor may be damaged as well.
NOTE: Perform a visual inspection of the sensor. Black sooty
deposits may indicate a rich air/fuel mixture, brown deposits may indicate an
oil consumption problem, and white gritty deposits may indicate an internal
coolant leak. All of these conditions can destroy a new sensor if not corrected
before installation.
The easiest method for determining sensor terminal identification is to use
a wiring diagram for the vehicle and engine in question. However, if a wiring
diagram is not available there is a method for determining terminal identification.
Throughout the testing procedures, the following terms will be used for clarity:
- Vehicle harness connector — this refers to the connector
on the wires which are attached to the vehicle; NOT the connector at the end
of the sensor pigtail.
- Sensor pigtail connector — this refers to the connector
attached to the sensor itself.
- O2circuit — this refers to the circuit in a Heated Oxygen
(HO2) sensor which corresponds to the oxygen-sensing function of the sensor;
NOT the heating element circuit.
- Heating circuit — this refers to the circuit in a HO2sensor
which is designed to warm the HO2sensor quickly to improve driveability.
- Sensor Output (SOUT) terminal — this is the terminal which
corresponds to the O2circuit output. This is the terminal which will register
the millivolt signals created by the sensor based upon the amount of oxygen
in the exhaust gas stream.
- Sensor Ground (SGND) terminal — when a sensor is so equipped,
this refers to the O2circuit ground terminal. Many O2sensors are not equipped
with a ground wire, rather they utilize the exhaust system for the ground
circuit.
- Heating Power (HPWR) terminal — this terminal corresponds
to the circuit which provides the O2sensor heating circuit with power when
the ignition key is turned to the ON or RUN positions.
- Heating Ground (HGND) terminal — this is the terminal connected
to the heating circuit ground wire.
1-wire sensors are by far the easiest to determine sensor terminal identification,
but this is self-evident. On 1-wire O2sensors, the single wire terminal is the
SOUT and the exhaust system is used to provide the sensor ground pathway. Proceed
to the test procedures.
On 2-wire sensors, one of the connector terminals is the SOUT and the other
is the SGND. To determine which one is which, perform the following:
- Locate the O2sensor and its pigtail connector. It may be necessary to raise
and safely support the vehicle to gain access to the connector.
- Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature,
then turn the engine OFF.
- Using a DVOM set to read 100–900 mV (millivolts) DC, backprobe the
positive DVOM lead to one of the unidentified terminals and attach the negative
lead to a good engine ground.
CAUTION
While the engine is running, keep clear of all moving and hot components.
Do not wear loose clothing. Otherwise severe personal injury or death may
occur.
- Have an assistant restart the engine and allow it to idle.
- Check the DVOM for voltage.
- If no voltage is evident, check your DVOM leads to ensure that they are
properly connected to the terminal and engine ground. If still no voltage
is evident at the first terminal, move the positive meter lead to backprobe
the second terminal.
- If voltage is now present, the positive meter lead is attached to the SOUT
terminal. The remaining terminal is the SGND terminal. If still no voltage
is evident, either the O2sensor is defective or the meter leads are not making
adequate contact with the engine ground and terminal contacts; clean the contacts
and retest. If still no voltage is evident, the sensor is defective.
- Have your assistant turn the engine OFF.
- Label the sensor pigtail SOUT and SGND terminals.
- Proceed to the test procedures.
NOTE: 3-wire sensors are HO2sensors.
On 3-wire sensors, one of the connector terminals is the SOUT, one of the terminals
is the HPWR and the other is the HGND. The SGND is achieved through the exhaust
system, as with the 1-wire O2sensor. To identify the 3 terminals, perform the
following:
- Locate the O2sensor and its pigtail connector. It may be necessary to raise
and safely support the vehicle to gain access to the connector.
- Disengage the sensor pigtail connector from the vehicle harness connector.
- Using a DVOM set to read 12 volts, attach the DVOM ground lead to a good
engine ground.
- Have an assistant turn the ignition switch ON without actually
starting the engine.
- Probe all 3 terminals in the vehicle harness connector. One of the terminals
should exhibit 12 volts of power with the ignition key ON; this
is the HPWR terminal.
- If the HPWR terminal was identified, note which of the sensor harness
connector terminals is the HPWR, then match the vehicle harness connector
to the sensor pigtail connector. Label the corresponding sensor pigtail
connector terminal with HPWR.
- If none of the terminals showed 12 volts of power, locate and test the
heater relay or fuse. Then, perform Steps 3–6 again.
- Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature,
then turn the engine OFF.
- Have your assistant turn the ignition OFF.
- Using the DVOM set to measure resistance (ohms), attach one of the leads
to the HPWR terminal of the sensor pigtail connector. Use the other lead to
probe the 2 remaining terminals of the sensor pigtail connector, one at a
time. The DVOM should show continuity with only one of the remaining unidentified
terminals; this is the HGND terminal. The remaining terminal is the SOUT.
- If continuity was found with only 1 of the 2 unidentified terminals,
label the HGND and SOUT terminals on the sensor pigtail connector.
- If no continuity was evident, or if continuity was evident from both
unidentified terminals, the O2sensor is defective.
- All 3 wire terminals should now be labeled on the sensor pigtail connector.
Proceed with the test procedures.
NOTE: 4-wire sensors are HO2sensors.
On 4-wire sensors, one of the connector terminals is the SOUT, one of the terminals
is the SGND, one of the terminals is the HPWR and the other is the HGND. To
identify the 4 terminals, perform the following:
- Locate the O2sensor and its pigtail connector. It may be necessary to raise
and safely support the vehicle to gain access to the connector.
- Disengage the sensor pigtail connector from the vehicle harness connector.
- Using a DVOM set to read 12 volts, attach the DVOM ground lead to a good
engine ground.
- Have an assistant turn the ignition switch ON without actually
starting the engine.
- Probe all 4 terminals in the vehicle harness connector. One of the terminals
should exhibit 12 volts of power with the ignition key ON; this
is the HPWR terminal.
- If the HPWR terminal was identified, note which of the sensor harness
connector terminals is the HPWR, then match the vehicle harness connector
to the sensor pigtail connector. Label the corresponding sensor pigtail
connector terminal with HPWR.
- If none of the terminals showed 12 volts of power, locate and test the
heater relay or fuse. Then, perform Steps 2–6 again.
- Have your assistant turn the ignition OFF.
- Using the DVOM set to measure resistance (ohms), attach one of the leads
to the HPWR terminal of the sensor pigtail connector. Use the other lead to
probe the 3 remaining terminals of the sensor pigtail connector, one at a
time. The DVOM should show continuity with only one of the remaining unidentified
terminals; this is the HGND terminal.
- If continuity was found with only 1 of the 2 unidentified terminals,
label the HGND terminal on the sensor pigtail connector.
- If no continuity was evident, or if continuity was evident from all
unidentified terminals, the O2sensor is defective.
- If continuity was found at 2 of the other terminals, the sensor is probably
defective. However, the sensor may not necessarily be defective, because
it may have been designed with the 2 ground wires joined inside the sensor
in case one of the ground wires is damaged; the other circuit could still
function properly. Though, this is highly unlikely. A wiring diagram is
necessary in this particular case to know whether the sensor was so designed.
- Reattach the sensor pigtail connector to the vehicle harness connector.
- Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature,
then turn the engine OFF.
- Using a DVOM set to read 100–900 mV (millivolts) DC, backprobe the
negative DVOM lead to one of the unidentified terminals and the positive lead
to the other unidentified terminal.
CAUTION
While the engine is running, keep clear of all moving and hot components.
Do not wear loose clothing. Otherwise severe personal injury or death may
occur.
- Have an assistant restart the engine and allow it to idle.
- Check the DVOM for voltage.
- If no voltage is evident, check your DVOM leads to ensure that they
are properly connected to the terminals. If still no voltage is evident
at either of the terminals, either the terminals were accidentally marked
incorrectly or the sensor is defective.
- If voltage is present, but the polarity is reversed (the DVOM will show
a negative voltage amount), turn the engine OFF and swap
the 2 DVOM leads on the terminals. Start the engine and ensure that the
voltage now shows the proper polarity.
- If voltage is evident and is the proper polarity, the positive DVOM
lead is attached to the SOUT and the negative lead to the SGND terminals.
- Have your assistant turn the engine OFF.
- Label the sensor pigtail SOUT and SGND terminals.
WARNING
Never apply voltage to the O2circuit of the sensor, otherwise it may be damaged.
Also, never connect an ohmmeter (or a DVOM set on the ohm function) to both
of the O2circuit terminals (SOUT and SGND) of the sensor pigtail connector;
it may damage the sensor.
Test 1 makes use of a standard DVOM with a 10 megohms impedance, whereas Test
2 necessitates the usage of an advanced Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) with MIN/MAX/Average
functions or a sliding bar graph function. Both of these in-vehicle test procedures
are likely to set Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) in the engine control computer.
Therefore, after testing, be sure to clear all DTC's before retesting the sensor,
if necessary. The third in-vehicle test is designed for the use of a scan tool
or oscilloscope. The 4th test (Heating Circuit Test) is designed to check the
function of the heating circuit in a HO2sensor.
NOTE: If the O2sensor being tested is designed to use the exhaust
system for the SGND, excessive corrosion between the exhaust and the O2sensor
may affect sensor functioning.
The in-vehicle tests may be performed for O2sensors located in the exhaust
system after the catalytic converter. However, the O2sensors located behind
the catalytic converter will not fluctuate like the sensors mounted before the
converter, because the converter, when functioning properly, emits a steady
amount of oxygen. If the O2sensor mounted after the catalytic converter exhibits
a fluctuating signal (like other O2sensors), the catalytic converter is most
likely defective.
Fig. 1: To test the O2sensor, locate it and its connector
(inset), which should be positioned away from the exhaust system to prevent
heat damage.
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This test will not only verify proper sensor functioning, but is also designed
to ensure the engine control computer and associated wiring is functioning properly
as well.
- Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature.
NOTE: If you are using the opening of the thermostat to
gauge normal operating temperature, be forewarned: a defective thermostat
can open too early and prevent the engine from reaching normal operating
temperature. This can cause a slightly rich condition in the exhaust, which
can throw the O2sensor readings off slightly.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, then locate the O2sensor pigtail
connector.
- Perform a visual inspection of the connector to ensure it is properly engaged
and all terminals are straight, tight and free from corrosion or damage.
- Disengage the sensor pigtail connector from the vehicle harness connector.
- On sensors equipped with a SGND terminal (sensors which do not use the exhaust
system for the sensor ground pathway), connect a jumper wire to the SGND terminal
and to a good, clean engine ground (preferably the negative terminal of the
battery).
- Using a DVOM set to read DC voltage, attach the positive lead to the SOUT
terminal of the sensor pigtail connector, and the DVOM negative lead to a
good engine ground.
CAUTION
While the engine is running, keep clear of all moving and hot components.
Do not wear loose clothing. Otherwise severe personal injury or death may
occur.
- Have an assistant start the engine and hold it at approximately 2000 rpm.
Wait at least 1 minute before commencing with the test to allow the O2sensor
to sufficiently warm up.
- Using a jumper wire, connect the SOUT terminal of the vehicle harness
connector to a good engine ground. This will fool the engine control
computer into thinking it is receiving a lean signal from the O2sensor, and,
therefore, the computer will richen the air/fuel ratio. With the SOUT terminal
so grounded, the DVOM should register at least 800 mV, as the control computer
adds additional fuel to the air/fuel ratio.
- While observing the DVOM, disconnect the vehicle harness connector SOUT
jumper wire from the engine ground. Use the jumper wire to apply slightly
less than 1 volt to the SOUT terminal of the vehicle harness connector. One
method to do this is by grasping and squeezing the end of the jumper between
your forefinger and thumb of one hand while touching the positive terminal
of the battery post with your other hand. This allows your body to act as
a resistor for the battery positive voltage, and fools the engine control
computer into thinking it is receiving a rich signal. Or, use a mostly-drained
AA battery by connecting the positive terminal of the AA battery to the jumper
wire and the negative terminal of the battery to a good engine ground. (Another
jumper wire may be necessary to do this.) The computer should lean the air/fuel
mixture out. This lean mixture should register as 150 mV or less on the DVOM.
- If the DVOM did not register millivoltages as indicated, the problem may
be either the sensor, the engine control computer or the associated wiring.
Perform the following to determine which is the defective component:
- Remove the vehicle harness connector SOUT jumper wire.
- While observing the DVOM, artificially enrich the air/fuel charge using
propane. The DVOM reading should register higher than normal millivoltages.
(Normal voltage for an ideal air/fuel mixture is approximately 450–550
mV DC). Then, lean the air/fuel intake charger by either disconnecting
one of the fuel injector wiring harness connectors (to prevent the injector
from delivering fuel) or by detaching 1 or 2 vacuum lines (to add additional
non-metered air into the engine). The DVOM should now register lower than
normal millivoltages. If the DVOM functioned as indicated, the problem
lies elsewhere in the fuel delivery and control system. If the DVOM readings
were still unresponsive, the O2sensor is defective; replace the sensor
and retest.
NOTE: Poor wire connections and/or ground circuits
may shift a normal O2sensor's millivoltage readings up into the rich
range or down into the lean range. It is a good idea to check the wire
condition and continuity before replacing a component which will not
fix the problem. A voltage drop test between the sensor case and ground
which reveals 14–16 mV or more, indicates a probable bad ground.
- Turn the engine OFF, remove the DVOM and all associated jumper
wires. Reattach the vehicle harness connector to the sensor pigtail connector.
If applicable, reattach the fuel injector wiring connector and/or the vacuum
line(s).
- Clear any DTC's present in the engine control computer memory, as necessary.
This test method is a more straight-forward O2sensor test, and does not test
the engine control computer's response to the O2sensor signal. The use of a
DMM with the MIN/MAX/Average function or sliding bar graph/wave function is
necessary for this test. Don't forget that the O2sensor mounted after the catalytic
converter (if equipped) will not fluctuate like the other O2sensor(s) will.
- Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature.
NOTE: If you are using the opening of the thermostat to
gauge normal operating temperature, be forewarned: a defective thermostat
can open too early and prevent the engine from reaching normal operating
temperature. This can cause a slightly rich condition in the exhaust, which
can throw the O2sensor readings off slightly.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, then locate the O2sensor pigtail
connector.
- Perform a visual inspection of the connector to ensure it is properly engaged
and all terminals are straight, tight and free from corrosion or damage.
- Backprobe the O2sensor connector terminals. Attach the DMM positive test
lead to the SOUT terminal of the sensor pigtail connector. Connect the negative
lead to either the SGND terminal of the sensor pigtail connector (if equipped — refer
to the terminal identification procedures earlier in this section for clarification)
or to a good, clean engine ground.
- Activate the MIN/MAX/Average or sliding bar graph/wave function on the DMM.
CAUTION
While the engine is running, keep clear of all moving and hot components.
Do not wear loose clothing. Otherwise severe personal injury or death may
occur.
- Have an assistant start the engine and wait a few minutes before commencing
with the test to allow the O2sensor to sufficiently warm up.
- Read the minimum, maximum and average readings exhibited by the O2sensor
or observe the bar graph/wave form. The average reading for a properly functioning
O2sensor is be approximately 450–550 mV DC. The minimum and maximum
readings should vary more than 300–600 mV. A typical O2sensor can fluctuate
from as low as 100 mV to as high as 900 mV; if the sensor range of fluctuation
is not large enough, the sensor is defective. Also, if the fluctuation range
is biased up or down in the scale. For example, if the fluctuation range is
400 mV to 900 mV the sensor is defective, because the readings are pushed
up into the rich range (as long as the fuel delivery system is functioning
properly). The same goes for a fluctuation range pushed down into the lean
range. The mid-point of the fluctuation range should be around 400–500
mV. Finally, if the O2sensor voltage fluctuates too slowly (usually the voltage
wave should oscillate past the mid-way point of 500 mV several times per second)
the sensor is defective. (Technician's refer to this state as "lazy.")
NOTE: Poor wire connections and/or ground circuits may
shift a normal O2sensor's millivoltage readings up into the rich range or
down into the lean range. It is a good idea to check the wire condition
and continuity before replacing a component that will not fix the problem.
A voltage drop test between the sensor case and ground which reveals 14–16
mV or more, indicates a probable bad ground.
- Using the propane method, richen the air/fuel mixture and observe the DMM
readings. The average O2sensor output signal voltage should rise into the
rich range.
- Lean the air/fuel mixture by either disconnecting a fuel injector wiring
harness connector or by disconnecting a vacuum line. The O2sensor average
output signal voltage should drop into the lean range.
- If the O2sensor did not react as indicated, the sensor is defective and
should be replaced.
- Turn the engine OFF, remove the DMM and all associated jumper
wires. Reattach the vehicle harness connector to the sensor pigtail connector.
If applicable, reattach the fuel injector wiring connector and/or the vacuum
line(s).
- Clear any DTC's present in the engine control computer memory, as necessary.
This test is designed for the use of an oscilloscope to test the functioning
of an O2sensor.
NOTE: This test is only applicable for O2sensors mounted in
the exhaust system before the catalytic converter.
- Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
- Turn the engine OFF, and locate the O2sensor connector. Backprobe
the scope lead to the O2sensor connector SOUT terminal. Refer to the manufacturer's
instructions for more information on attaching the scope to the vehicle.
- Turn the scope ON.
- Set the oscilloscope amplitude to 200 mV per division, and the time to 1
second per division. Use the 1:1 setting of the probe, and be sure to connect
the scope's ground lead to a good, clean engine ground. Set the signal function
to automatic or internal triggering.
- Start the engine and run it at 2000 rpm.
- The oscilloscope should display a wave form, representative of the O2sensor
switching between lean (100–300 mV) and rich (700–900 mV). The
sensor should switch between rich and lean, or lean and rich (crossing the
mid-point of 500 mV) several times per second. Also, the range of each wave
should reach at least above 700 mV and below 300 mV. However, an occasional
low peak is acceptable.
- Force the air/fuel mixture rich by introducing propane into the engine,
then observe the oscilloscope readings. The fluctuating range of the O2sensor
should climb into the rich range.
- Lean the air/fuel mixture out by either detaching a vacuum line or by disengaging
one of the fuel injector's wiring connectors. Watch the scope readings; the
O2sensor wave form should drop toward the lean range.
- If the O2sensor's wave form does not fluctuate adequately, is not centered
around 500 mV during normal engine operation, does not climb toward the rich
range when propane is added to the engine, or does not drop toward the lean
range when a vacuum hose or fuel injector connector is detached, the sensor
is defective.
- Reattach the fuel injector connector or vacuum hose.
- Disconnect the oscilloscope from the vehicle.
Fig. 2: An oscilloscope wave form of a typical good
O2sensor as it fluctuates from rich to lean
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The heating circuit in an O2sensor is designed only to heat the sensor quicker
than a non-heated sensor. This provides an advantage of increased engine driveability
and fuel economy while the engine temperature is still below normal operating
temperature, because the fuel management system can enter closed loop operation
(more efficient than open loop operation) sooner.
Therefore, if the heating element goes bad, the O2sensor may still function
properly once the sensor warms up to its normal temperature. This will take
longer than normal and may cause mild driveability-related problems while the
engine has not reached normal operating temperature.
If the heating element is found to be defective, replace the O2sensor without
wasting your time testing the O2circuit. If necessary, you can perform the O2circuit
test with the new O2sensor and save yourself some time.
- Locate the O2sensor pigtail connector.
Fig. 3: The heating circuit of the O2sensor can be
tested with a DMM set to measure resistance
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- Perform a visual inspection of the connector to ensure it is properly engaged
and all terminals are straight, tight and free from corrosion or damage.
- Disengage the sensor pigtail connector from the vehicle harness connector.
- Using a DVOM set to read resistance (ohms), attach one DVOM test lead to
the HPWR terminal, and the other lead to the HGND terminal, of the sensor
pigtail connector, then observe the resistance readings.
- If there is no continuity between the HPWR and HGND terminals, the sensor
is defective. Replace it with a new one and retest.
- If there is continuity between the 2 terminals, but the resistance is
greater than approximately 20 ohms, the sensor is defective. Replace it
with a new one and retest.
NOTE: For the following step, the HO2sensor should
be approximately 75°F (23°C) for the proper resistance values.
- If there is continuity between the 2 terminals and it is less than 20
ohms, the sensor is probably not defective. Because of the large diversity
of engine control systems used in vehicles today, O2sensor heating circuit
resistance specifications change often. Generally, the amount of resistance
an O2sensor heating circuit should exhibit is between 2–9 ohms.
However, some manufacturer's O2sensors may show resistance as high as
15–20 ohms. As a rule of thumb, 20 ohms of resistance is the upper
limit allowable.
- Turn the engine OFF, remove the DVOM and all associated jumper
wires. Reattach the vehicle harness connector to the sensor pigtail connector.
- Clear any DTC's present in the engine control computer memory, as necessary.
NOTE: Utilize one of the in-vehicle tests before performing
this test.
This test is designed to test an O2sensor which does not seem to fluctuate
fully beyond 400–700 mV. The sensor is to be secured in a table-mounted
vise.
CAUTION
This test can be very dangerous. Take the necessary precautions when working
with a propane torch. Ensure that all combustible substances are removed from
the work area and have a fire extinguisher ready at all times. Be sure to wear
the appropriate protective clothing as well.
- Remove the O2sensor.
NOTE: Perform a visual inspection of the sensor. Black
sooty deposits may indicate a rich air/fuel mixture, brown deposits may
indicate an oil consumption problem, and white gritty deposits may indicate
an internal coolant leak. All of these conditions can destroy a new sensor
if not corrected before installation.
- Position the sensor in a vise so that the vise holds the sensor by the hex
portion of its case.
- Attach one lead of a DVOM set to read DC millivoltages to the sensor case
and the other lead to the SOUT terminal of the sensor pigtail connector.
- Carefully use a propane torch to heat the tip (and ONLY the tip) of the
sensor. Once the sensor reaches close to normal operating temperature range,
alternately heat the sensor up and allow it to cool down; the sensor output
voltage signal should change with the temperature change.
NOTE: This may also clean a sensor covered with a heavy
coat of carbon.
- If the sensor voltage does not change with the fluctuation in temperature,
replace the sensor with a new one. Install the new sensor and perform one
of the in-vehicle tests to rule out additional fuel management system faults.