Fig. 1: Door striker adjustments
|
Fig. 2: MPV front door adjustments |
When checking door alignment, look carefully at each seam between the door and body. The gap should be constant and even all the way around the door. Pay particular attention to the door seams at the corner farthest from the hinges, this is the area where errors will be most evident. Additionally, the door should pull against the weatherstrip when latched to seal out wind and water. The contact should be even all the way around and the stripping should be about half compressed.
The position of the door can be adjusted in three dimensions: fore and aft, up and down, in and out. The primary adjusting points are the hinge-to-body bolts. Apply tape to the fender (or door pillar and quarter panel) and door edges to protect the paint. Two layers of common masking tape works well. Loosen the bolts just enough to allow the hinge to move. With the help of an assistant, position the door and tighten the bolts. Inspect the door seams carefully and repeat the adjustment until correctly aligned.
The in-out adjustment (how far the door "sticks out'' from the body) is adjusted by loosening the hinge-to-door bolts. Again, loosen the bolts, move the door into place, tighten the bolts. The dimension affects both the amount of crush on the weatherstrip and the amount of "bite'' on the striker.
Further adjustment for closed position and smoothness of latching is made at the latch plate or striker. This piece is located at the rear edge of the door and is attached to the body work; it is the piece the door latch engages when the door is closed.
The striker can be moved up and down to compensate for door position, but if the door is mounted correctly at the hinges this should not be necessary. Do not attempt to correct height variations (sag) by adjusting the striker.
It may be necessary to repeat the striker adjustment several times (and possibly re-adjust the hinges) before correct door to body match is produced.