Fig. 1: Exploded view of the EGR system and related components for the 2.3L engine |
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the EGR system and related components for the 3.0L engine |
Fig. 3: Exploded view of the EGR system and related components for the 4.0L engine |
Check the EGR system hoses and connections for looseness, pinching, leaks, splitting, blockage, etc. Ensure that the EGR valve mounting bolts are not loose, or that the flange gasket is not damaged. If the system appears to be in good shape, proceed to the EGR vacuum test, otherwise repair the damaged components.
NOTE: The EVR solenoid has a constant internal leak; this is normal. There may be a small vacuum signal, however, it should be less than 1.0 in. Hg (3.4 kPa) of vacuum.
Start the engine and allow it to run until normal operating temperature is reached. With the engine running at idle, detach the vacuum supply hose from the EGR valve and install a vacuum gauge to the hose. The vacuum reading should be less than 1.0 in. Hg (3.4 kPa) of vacuum. If the vacuum is greater than that specified, the problem may lie with the EVR solenoid.
NOTE: If the engine will not idle with the IAC solenoid disconnected, provide an air bypass to the engine by slightly opening the throttle plate or by creating an intake vacuum leak. Do not allow the idle speed to exceed typical idle rpm.
Fig. 4: Some EGR valves may be tested using a vacuum
pump by watching for diaphragm movement
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